Impenetrable, dense vivid red as a five year old, almost to the rim. Unmistakably Grange nose, formic and ripe, pungent and confronting. Darker elements at the core, soy/ cola/ peat/ coal dust. Dutch black liquorice with sesame/ seaweed and quince paste. Beneath, a coffee-grind/ mocha/ bitter chocolate, from oak? Above, African spices coupled with a fleeting and appealing glacial waft. At once, balanced and accessible, fresh and tight. A structural and textural continuum, no beginning or end, no gaps. Complete. Oak omnipresent, yet neither prominent nor ostentatious, completely assimilated. Tannins are neither obstructive nor aggressive, yet effortlessly convey the flavours.